Frequently asked questions

We have local electricians across the KT, GU, SW, SE, CR, RG, TN and BN postcode areas — including Kingston, Epsom, Guildford, Woking, Wimbledon, Croydon, Reading, Tunbridge Wells, Brighton and Hove. If you're not sure whether we cover your postcode, just ask.

Yes. For urgent electrical problems such as total power loss, burning smells, sparking or a consumer unit that won't reset, call us. We'll give you safety advice straight away and an honest estimate of when we can attend.

Yes. We explain call-out and labour charges before attending, and agree the cost of any repair or installation with you before the work begins. Nothing is added without your say-so.

Yes. Completed electrical work is tested and the appropriate certificate is issued — typically an Electrical Installation Certificate for new circuits and consumer units, a Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate for smaller jobs, or an EICR for inspections.

Private landlords in England must have the electrical installation inspected and tested at least every five years under the Electrical Safety Standards in the Private Rented Sector (England) Regulations 2020, and must provide the report to tenants.

Unplug appliances on the affected circuit and try resetting once. If it holds, plug items back in one at a time to find a faulty appliance. If it still trips with everything unplugged, leave it off and call an electrician — the fault is likely in the fixed wiring.

If your neighbours have also lost power, it's probably a network fault — call 105 free to report it. If only your property is affected, check your consumer unit; if a switch has tripped and won't reset, you likely need an electrician.

Yes — photos of the consumer unit, the faulty fitting or the appliance rating plate often help us give better advice and a more accurate quote before we visit.

Anything that presents an immediate risk of fire, shock or loss of essential power: burning smells, sparking, scorching, water in electrics, exposed live cables, or a total loss of power you can't restore by resetting the consumer unit.

Response times depend on where you are and how many urgent jobs are already booked. Call us and we'll give you an honest arrival estimate before you commit — we won't promise a time we can't meet.

We'll explain our call-out and labour charges on the phone before we attend, so there are no surprises. Parts and any further work are agreed with you before they're carried out.

No. A breaker or RCD that trips repeatedly is doing its job: detecting a fault. Repeatedly resetting it can make things worse. Unplug appliances on that circuit and try once; if it still trips, leave it off and call an electrician.

Intermittent faults are often caused by loose connections that heat and cool, moisture that comes and goes with the weather, or an appliance that only faults under load. They need systematic testing rather than a quick visual check.

Most faults can be found on the first visit. Some intermittent faults only show themselves under certain conditions, in which case we'll explain what we've ruled out and agree the next step with you.

Only if testing shows the fault is in a concealed cable, and never without discussing it with you first. Where possible we'll repair at accessible points or suggest a less disruptive alternative route.

The most common causes are a faulty appliance, moisture in an outdoor or bathroom fitting, a damaged cable, or a build-up of small earth leakage across many appliances on one RCD. Testing identifies which.

The breaker is protecting you, but the underlying fault can be dangerous. Don't keep resetting it or bypass it — get the circuit tested.

Not necessarily. Many tripping problems are caused by a fault on one circuit. A new consumer unit is only recommended if the existing one is damaged, lacks suitable RCD protection, or is otherwise unsafe or unsuitable.

It depends on the size, age and condition of the installation. A typical flat or small house usually takes a few hours. Power will need to be switched off to circuits during testing, and we'll agree timings with you or your tenants in advance.

We'll explain each item and provide a quotation for remedial work. Once the work is complete, you'll receive written confirmation and the appropriate certification, so you can show the installation is now satisfactory.

No. An EICR covers the fixed electrical installation. PAT (portable appliance testing) covers plug-in appliances. Landlords and businesses may need to consider both.

We test the installation in line with BS 7671 and IET guidance. Where sample testing is used, the sample size and any limitations are recorded on the report.

In England, at least every five years, or more frequently if the previous report recommends it.

Yes. With your permission we can contact tenants to arrange access, keeping you or your agent informed throughout.

Yes. We can work to an agent's instructions and send reports and invoices to the agent or landlord as required.

It means remedial or further investigative work is legally required within 28 days (or a shorter period if stated). We can quote quickly and complete the work so you can supply written confirmation on time.

Yes. Send us a copy of the report and we'll quote for the listed items. Where an observation needs verifying, we'll check it before starting work.

Not usually. You'll receive certification for the remedial work, which, together with the original report, shows the issues have been addressed. A new full EICR is only needed if the original was limited or if you choose to have one.

It depends on the scope and parts required. Tell us your deadline when you get in touch and we'll be clear about whether we can meet it.

In England there's no specific law requiring landlords to PAT test, but they must make sure any appliances they supply are safe. PAT testing with a written record is the simplest way to show that, and many HMO licensing councils, agents and insurers expect it.

It's labelled as failed and listed in your report. Where the fault is minor, such as a fuse or plug, we can often fix it on the spot with your agreement. Otherwise the item should be taken out of use and repaired or replaced.

New equipment should still be visually checked before use. A formal test is generally not needed straight away, but the item should be added to your register so it's included in future inspections.

Each item only needs to be unplugged briefly. We can work around your staff, and IT equipment can be scheduled to avoid interrupting work.

It depends on the size and layout of the property and its fire risk assessment. Larger HMOs and those with longer or more complex escape routes commonly require it. Your council's HMO standards and your fire risk assessment will set out what's needed.

A short test in which the mains supply to the emergency lights is briefly interrupted (usually with a key switch) to check each fitting lights up. It should be recorded in the logbook.

Yes. We can test and repair existing systems, update the logbook and advise on any fittings that need replacing.

Battery life varies by type and conditions, but batteries are commonly replaced every few years. A failed annual duration test is the usual sign that batteries need replacing.

For rented properties the law requires working smoke alarms on each storey, which can be battery-powered. However, new builds, extensions and loft conversions normally need mains-powered interlinked alarms, and mains-powered interlinked alarms with battery backup are widely recommended for better protection.

Interlinked alarms are connected, by wiring or radio, so that when one detects smoke or heat, they all sound. This gives everyone in the property earlier warning wherever the fire starts.

Domestic alarms should be tested regularly by pressing the test button. Larger systems in HMOs, blocks and commercial premises should be tested weekly by the responsible person and professionally serviced at regular intervals, typically every six months under BS 5839-1.

Most smoke and heat alarms have a recommended replacement date, commonly around ten years from manufacture. Check the date on the alarm; we can replace expired units like-for-like or upgrade them.